The European Union has recently banned trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide (TPO), a key ingredient in many gel nail polishes. TPO is used as a photoinitiator, helping to harden gel products under UV or LED light during manicures. Brian William Morrison, M.D., a dermatologist at the University of Miami Health System, explained, “This is what turns the liquid gel into a solid. It’s also why people feel a ‘heat spike’ when they get gel polish done.” Dr. Morrison noted that while not all gel polishes contain TPO, it remains popular in salons across the United States for its effectiveness.
Starting September 1, nail polishes containing TPO are no longer permitted in EU countries. The decision follows findings from the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) report released in November 2024, which indicated that TPO is not classified as carcinogenic but raised concerns about potential fertility issues. Dr. Morrison commented, “I think this is the main reason it was banned in the EU, especially since young women are the demographic that’s getting gel polish.”
The ban highlights differing regulatory approaches between Europe and the United States regarding cosmetic ingredients. Dr. Morrison said, “The EU prioritizes preventing harm, and the U.S. is more reactive and addresses risks only after harm is demonstrated.” He pointed out that there are several products available in America—such as certain food dyes and preservatives—that are restricted or banned in Europe.
Dr. Morrison reassured consumers that occasional use of gel manicures likely poses low risk: “Banning TPO is a precautionary move from the EU. As of now, there’s no evidence to suggest TPO harms humans.” Existing studies showing effects on fertility were conducted on animals at specific doses, and there is currently no evidence linking TPO to cancer.
Another consideration with gel manicures is exposure to ultraviolet (UV) light from curing lamps. Some research suggests repeated exposure could slightly increase skin cancer risk; however, Dr. Morrison clarified: “That said, there are no studies that have found an association of gel polish or UV salon lamps and the development of skin cancer on the fingers.” He recommends applying sunscreen before manicures and limiting frequency to reduce potential risks.
For those seeking alternatives, some polishes labeled as vegan or non-toxic do not contain TPO or HEMA (hydroxyethyl methacrylate), another common hardener. However, Dr. Morrison cautioned: “Vegan gel polishes have acrylates that can cause an allergic contact dermatitis and lifting of the nails, known as onycholysis.” Regular nail polish may be safer for frequent use.
Beyond product ingredients, Dr. Morrison advised selecting reputable salons with clean facilities and knowledgeable staff for safer manicures: “Select a salon with a good reputation, that’s clean, and has knowledgeable staff.” He also warned against services on already damaged nails: “This is especially true for lifted nails, or onycholysis, which might be the result of a nail cosmetic or aggressive manicure or pedicure.”
Staying informed about product safety and following updates from regulatory agencies like the EU and FDA can help consumers make better choices about beauty treatments. Dr. Morrison concluded by encouraging personal responsibility: “Remember that regulation doesn’t replace your personal judgment. You don’t have to ditch gel nails overnight, but it’s worth understanding what’s in your polish, and what’s happening in safety research for cosmetics.”
